Books on Ibiza
Bibliomaniacs' Corner by Martin Davies
John Mercer
Four-legged
friends often play an important role in children's books. So far in this series
we have considered fishes in trees and a mule, leaving for today's article two
of the most emblematic Pityusan creatures - lizards and dogs. Cat-maniacs do not
despair - your turn will come presently - but following strict seniority, let
us first take the Pityusic lizard (Podarcis pityusensis), the oldest inhabitant
by far of the archipelago. This fascinating creature exists in numerous subspecies
on the outlying islets, some on the very brink of extinction. Over much of the
previous century their numbers have dwindled as collectors packed them off to
northern terraria to end their days (few even survived the journey); one such
culprit was the grandson of Paul Gauguin, who arrived on the island in 1933 and
stayed for three years; another was a sculptor called Jokisch, who was living
in Stuttgart in 1922 when he heard a programme about Ibiza on the radio. He ended
up living with two 'nieces' in a casa payesa in San José until at
least the outbreak of the Civil War, and when the fashion for lizards had run
its sorry course, became a fisherman and possibly a spy for the German Navy. Lizard
Island Expedition (1965) offers up the classic Boy's Own combination of physical
challenge and archaeological mystery. The author, John Mercer, was born in the
Canary Islands, attended school in Spain and England, worked as a chartered accountant
in Paris and lived for a winter amidst the ruins of Carthage. This was followed
by four years underwater fishing and fossil-hunting in the Balearics before he
retired to the Scottish Island of Jura to dye wool and weave rugs. A close ethnographic
cousin, you might say, of Indiana Jones. His tale of underwater
daring-do is set off the deserted cape of a fictitious Mediterranean isle called
'Puertoviejo'. The smaller eponymous island stands slightly offshore and it is
there, with nothing but huge inquisitive lizards for company, that two plucky
English lads pitch their tent. Their main interests are underwater fishing and
fossils, and it is while hunting for grouper that they come across the remains
of two enormous sunken harbours dating back several millennia. The jetties for
hundreds of triremes bear a close resemblance to the twin commercial-military
port of Carthage itself. The island's name is thus given a definitive explanation,
even though no local archaeologist has ever had the slightest inkling about the
awesome truth. | |
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Near the back of the book a map of 'Puertoviejo' reveals that Formentera (whose
name was once thought to come from the Latin frumentaria - 'wheat-fields')
provided the underlying inspiration: there is a 'Barbary Cape' (complete with
imposing cliffs), separated from the rest of the island by pinewoods, a long north-south
road which connects it with the port of 'Cabrera' (La Savina) and two 'villages'
marked just about where San Francisco Javier and San Fernando lie. The eastern
part of the island, including La Mola and the flat isthmus in between, has vanished
beneath the waves to complete the topographical disguise, but otherwise it looks
exactly like the western part of Formentera - there is even an inlet corresponding
to Cala Saona. The sole addition is little offshore 'Lizard Island' and its sunken
Carthaginian harbours, plonked down just west of the Cap de Barbaria lighthouse.
Although in reality there is no island in this spot, those familiar with Espalmador
to the north of Formentera might like to reflect that its two natural harbours
have been used by mariners since very ancient times. Moreover the only Phoenician
remains from the entire Formentera group have come from tiny Illa de s'Alga ('Seaweed
Island'), which lies just offshore. Espalmador's name also has a nautical origin,
despalmar being an old Catalan word meaning to get rid of the barnacles
and algae which grow on the hulks of ships, prior to caulking. Turning now to
the etymology of Formentera itself, it seems likely that the 'bread-basket' theory
formed the starting-point of this book, although in actual fact few if any Carthaginians
remains have ever been found on Formentera (the Romans were the first proper settlers
after the Iron Age). Most experts are now agreed that its name derives from the
Latin promontoria (singular promontorium), referring to the two
prominent headlands - La Mola ('The Millstone') and the 'Barbary Cape'. Is
it so far-fetched that the Pityuses might still harbour astonishing secrets from
the distant past? What, for instance, about the libri Punici, ancient papyrus
scrolls or volumina (from the Latin volvere - 'to roll') which were
hastily smuggled out of Carthage around the time of its destruction in 146 BC.
Could such treasure be awaiting a latter-day Howard Carter in a buried Dalt Vila
cellar or the inmost recesses of a forgotten smugglers' cave in San Vicente? ('The
Millstone' too is said to be riddled with unexplored cavities.) There is a passage
in B.H. Warmington's Carthage (1960) which should strike a chord for all
armchair archaeologists: "The Romans handed over to the Numidian kings the
contents of the libraries of Carthage, which fell into their hands at the sack;
it is to be presumed that there were many books, like that of Mago [an expert
on agriculture], of immediate practical use in the backward territories."
Pliny is the source here, and one is tempted to ask, What about the advanced territories
like Ibiza, whose citizens could actually read? Mago's twenty-eight books were
in fact translated into both Latin and Greek before vanishing completely from
sight during the course of the Dark Ages. Plutarch too speaks of sacred parchments
hidden underground before Carthage's destruction. If only they'd been engraved
on stone or clay. In recent years the decipherment of tablets from the buried
archives of Ebla (a landlocked city half way between the Euphrates and the Mediterranean)
is greatly advancing our knowledge of the proto-Phoenician civilization known
as Canaanite. Could Ibiza or Formentera hold the key to Carthage? From lizards
to man's best friend: the ca eivissenc, podenco ibicenco or Ibizan hound
needs no introduction. Their svelte Egyptian looks and beguiling pointy ears are
admired the length and breadth of the globe - they even have their very own kennel
clubs in America and Sweden (see http://hem.passagen.se/komhund/E7_ibizan.htm).
Voyage to the Island of Bes (1996) by Belgian architect-illustrator
Valérie Gevers, takes the reader on an unusual odyssey into the island's
rural heart. The tale starts when Petra, a girl holidaying in Cala Tarida is paddling
offshore and sights a mysterious podenco atop a nearby headland. On regaining
the shore, she has dressed and is gathering up her belongings when the mysterious
hound suddenly bounds up and grabs her bright red bum-bag. She gives chase, but
with no luck and after an exhausting climb collapses in the shade of a magnificent
fig tree. In the subsequent extended dream (which occupies the rest of the book),
the dog reappears and the chase is resumed. She stops to chat with an old payesa
who tells her of a mysterious well in the centre of the island, whose interior
is decorated with magical symbols. Soon after she receives a lift from a group
of children in a cart on their way to a dance in front of the ancient well just
mentioned. After dancing by the light of the full moon she is taken to rest in
a nearby farmhouse and unrolls her little mattress on the upper porch beneath
drying tomatoes and star-spangled heavens. She is awakened from her dream (itself
within a dream) by a 'small green being with a long tail' - a barruguet
- summoned by a little rhyme she earlier composed and recited. The funny little
creature shows her how the traditional houses are built, and still within the
dream she witnesses the gradual erection of an entire building. She stays with
her Ibicenco hosts over the course of an agricultural year, seeing numerous other
traditional activities and at the end is woken by her younger brother who says
that everyone is waiting for her on the beach. The bum-bag is dug up by the dog
and Petra returns to her family, not quite sure what has been going on. Just like
the reader. | |
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Front and back covers
of Voyage to the Island of Bes by Valérie Gevers |
But if this plot
has left you a little dazed, then the illustrations more than compensate. They
are magnificent, some of the most beautiful drawings ever made of the old Ibicenco
way of life. There is the dappled light and shade of a fig-tree with sun-drenched
cornfields and terraces beyond; a cutaway of the island showing woods, terraces,
farms, haystacks and orchards, leading down to sheltered coves with miniature
boathouses; there are kitchen gardens and orange groves, a splendid double-page
panorama depicting the moonlit dance in front of the well, house-building, whitewashing
and a cutaway of an old kitchen at night with pig-tailed payesas and great
parafums or chimney-hoods. Although this is supposedly a children's book,
it is in fact a simplified explanation for adults of Ibiza's traditional architecture.
The pièce de résistance is a bird's-eye view of a magnificent
old finca (Can Nadal de Baix, right next to the Cala Vedella road), with the roof
removed to allow you to roam about inside. For anyone wishing to gain further
insights into Ibicenco architecture, this little book is an excellent place to
begin and children will have plenty of fun poring over the illustrations. It is
available in either English, French or Spanish from the publishers at piacruz@airtel.net.
Shortly
after I acquired my copy at the book launch in 1996, I took it to show local-history
maestro Emily Kaufman at her annual Christmas party. One of the guests put it
down too close to a large candle and the book's cover and first three leaves caught
fire. As the culprit neither apologised nor offered to make good the damage -serious
omissions indeed for any booklover - she has since been dubbed 'the Book Burner'.
But there was also a bizarre and particularly Ibicenco side to the incident: the
first half of Gevers' dedication (in French) was destroyed, leaving only a prophetic
warning: 'it is best to pay attention to the barruguets'. Although the
author-illustrator lives in Belgium, she was still on the island to add a further
observation two days later: 'Peut-être les barruguets ont peur de feu?
Qui sait? Le livre reste un peu plus unique...' On a happier note, the editor,
Pia de la Cruz, recently provided a replacement copy free of charge. It goes without
saying that she and her architect partner Philippe Rotthier are outstanding bibliomaniacs.
And now all you feline fans, thank you for your patience.
Crazy for Cats (1990) is an album of thirty-six animal portraits painted
by yet another highly talented Belgian illustrator, Claudine Titeca, in which
Ibiza's landscape, architecture and flora form an idyllic backdrop (see illustration
below). The text is by Italian resident, Orietta Sala, who is not only an amusing
and knowledgeable commentator on our whiskered friends, but also a world authority
on the subject of roses - having written several important books. Among the volume's
numerous rich pickings are famous sayings, ploys to keep your master/mistress
royally entertained (The Snake Game), tips for cat birthday parties (a red rose,
two lobsters and a pheasant are recommended), unusual medical lore and a miniature
exposition on the 'Language of the Tail'. The drawings are exquisite, depicting
the protagonists romping in almond blossom, masquerading as oranges on trees,
nibbling on herbs at dusk or playing 'catch' with Mummy Cat's tail. It was originally
published in Italian, and is (or was) also available in French. My younger sister
was delighted with a copy she received at Christmas - a perfect coming together
of two of her favourite things (Ibiza and cats). Today's closing message - by
Aldous Huxley - comes from the section of famous sayings:''If you want
to write, keep cats.' |
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Illustration
by Claudine Titeca from Crazy For Cats by Orietta Sala |
Martin Davies martindavies@ibizahistoryculture.com
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