I am
writing this in the middle of an officially declared 'Estado de Alerta', a 'State
of Alert' as the island again awaits the arrival of strong winds, heavy rain,
and a dramatic lowering of temperatures. After the incredible damages of last
weekend's storm (particularly on Mallorca and Minorca
- it is estimated that 75,000 trees were destroyed and there was massive
damage to particularly northern coastal areas - as I write this early on Thursday
morning there are still 7000 people on Mallorca without electricity) the Balearic
islands and Pitiusas (Ibiza and Formentera - we are actually a separate group
of islands) are bracing themselves for the imminent arrival of another massive
storm with potential winds estimates varying between 80-140 km/hour and rain
estimates between 60-100 litres/metre3 over 12 hours. This is freak weather
- it is the time of the 'temporal', as seasonal weather phenomenon, but this
is worse than usual and is combined with the 'traumontana' winds bringing unseasonably
cold weather from the north. So everyone is battening down the hatches and waiting
to see what will happen. Consequently this weeks column will be very short:
I need to finish it quickly and email it to our editor Gary Hardy before the
winds knock out the electricity (as happened last weekend) or before the phone
lines go down. As it looks like the storm may not leave our area until Friday
things may be out for a while if the situation gets bad. Having lived (only
just!) through some rough cyclones in Vanuatu in the Southwest Pacific (Cyclone
'Uma' in 1987 killed 50 people) I tend to be on the cautious side when rough
weather is in the pipeline.
'Companatge'.
I think this week I would like to briefly make a short note about a relatively
new development in the Eivissa/Ibiza
form of matançes (pig killings) and
the production of sobrassades and botifarro: the forming of the local company
'Companatge' (readers of last week's column will remember that this is the term
used for the 'full late breakfast' held at a rural peasant household for all
those of the extended family and friends helping out in the matança). In the early 1990s the industrial butcher Juan Luis Ferra,
a lover of Ibicencan sobressada and botifarro, decided to try and produce them
on a larger scale following traditional Eivissenc methods and selling commercially to a wider audience. He
realised that the best 'embutidos'
were made from the almost-disappeared porc
negre (black pig) and decided to try and promote its re-introduction. By
1993 he had received a grant from the Ibiza Local Government's Agricultural
Consul to assist in the project. Ferra became the Director of the project's
company, which he called 'Companatge'. He wanted to produce traditional Ibicenco
pig product 'embutidos', using modern
methods following the traditional methods and making these products available
to a public that would not necessarily normally have access to them. He wanted
to produce them following recent EU (European Union) health and sanitary regulations
so that these embutidos could also
be officially exported. He set up cold storage rooms and modern machines to
assist the work (this is on a small scale, not a massive one) and by mid-1993
had available to him the services of a professional traditional Ibicenco matançer
(pig killer) and a matançera (a woman
pig killer). At this time he was putting the word out around the island that
he wanted traditional black pigs, not the modern 'Large White' variety so common
nowadays and the Ibiza Local Government Agricultural consul was to advise him
on which pagesos eivissencos (rural
Ibicenco peasants) he should try and contact. His plan was to raise black pigs
himself, following new sanitary and veterinary regulations and then distribute
the growing pigs to rural peasant households recommended to him by the local
government - and giving regulation advice to these households. Once these pigs
had been properly fattened, 'Companatge' would then buy them back and, with
its pig killers and professional staff eventually produces the required 'embutidos'.
It was
a good plan, and by 1996 the 'Companatge' company, then based in the village
of Jesus, was in full production. It has now moved to the Carretera de San Miguel
(at km 3.5) a wise move if one wants/needs to be nearer to rurally raised pigs.
Their production is of high quality. As they say in their beautifully-produced
1996 publicity leaflet:
"
Companatge le acerca a su mesa la autentica matanza casera ibicenca y le garantiza
todas las caracteristicas de los autenticos productos artesanos de la isla de
Ibiza. Recuerde, solo es autentica si lleva el sello de garantia."
("Companatge
brings to your table (products of) the authentic Ibicencan matanza and guarantees
all the characteristics of the authentic products of the island of Ibiza. Remember,
it is only authentic if it bears the seal of guarantee."
And the
seal shows.... An outline map of the island of Eivissa/Ibiza
had overlain with a black pig.
Well, you
cannot purchase Companatge's products in Privilege or Amnesia discotheques,
but you can find them in quite a number of island stores, including the Consumer/Syp
chain of supermarkets. Give them a try!
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