Now is the time of the year on Eivissa when
pagès eivissenc (Ibicenco peasant) conversation turns
to pigs, as readers of my last two articles will have realized.
Pigs in general and pigs in particular can be discussed, and
the annual matançes (pig-killings) begin to be planned.
If one happens to be a tourist at this time of the year, when
most tourists have left the island, then don't necessarily
assume that the three old men standing on the street corner
nearby are talking about the situation in Afghanistan or the
possibility of world economic recession, the topic may be
much closer to home. One of the most interesting discussions
I had here about pigs was at the height of the Gulf War, standing
outside the Banco de Credito Balear in San Antonio only a
hundred yards or so from the entrance to Es Paradis Terrenal
(one of the biggest discotheques on the island) talking with
three old pagesos from the hills. The discussion ranged from
comparisons of the real island pig (long and low with long
snout and black hair) with the relatively recently-introduced
large white pig (which has now almost completely displaced
the former on the island) to quality of new animal feed ('piensos'
in Spanish) available in the local Agricultural Cooperatives
to bemoaning the lack of young traditional matançers
(pig killers). Sometimes pig debts might come up in such conversations:
this would be the time when the traditional Ibicenco men's
walking stick, un garrot (also sometimes called un gayatu,
a term slightly closer to the Castillano 'una gajata') could
come into its ritual use. It is very rare now to see an Ibicenco
with a garrot, although one still occasionally sees one being
held by very elderly men inland, and most traditional houses
inland have one or two 'hidden' somewhere.
A garrot is made from a young thin type
of 'sabina' pine tree, cut to about one metre in length. The
thin tapering branches are mostly cut off, each leaving a
slightly pointed base. These points, called ses punches in
Eivissenc language (an early and rare sub-dialect of eastern
Catalan, but with other linguistic influences in it) are an
important part of garrot decoration. One or two of the thin
tapering branches are left nearly untouched and are gently
twistingly trained around the walking stick along its length.
The bark is carefully scraped from stem and branches and the
new garrot is left gleamingly white. After years of carrying,
the garrot takes on a beautiful yellowish-brown shiny patina,
much admired by 'garrot- connoisseurs'. The thin tapering
branches that gently twine around the walking stick are particularly
important. During discussions such as the one mentioned above
one might see an old man quickly 'untie' one of the small
branches (its base still attached to the walking stick's stem)
and almost playfully and gently 'whip' one of the other men
with it. This action would indicate that the 'whippee' owed
the 'whipper' some form of debt, probably to do with pigs
if that was the topic of the discussion, although such 'whipping'
could indicate the owing of any kind of debt. Although almost
any pagès male could make a garrot, some specialized
in making them, but very few are made today. One of the last
of the specialized garrot-makers in the western coastal area
of the island died a few years ago aged in his mid-1990s.
Other topics of discussion could be the
quality of the/sa matançera (also known as sa cutxilla
matançera), the pig-killing knife. The traditional
island-made (by hand) matançera, with beautiful traditional
designs stamped along the blade, is, of course, much preferred
to modern imported varieties, although the hand-made ones
are now quite rare.
There is quite a long build-up to the actual
pig killing. Everything must be perfectly pre-prepared and
ready. Traditionally the male pagès head of the household
and his eldest son would make a special trip to Vila (Ibiza
town) to purchase the required peppers, salt, spices and nyinyol
(particular thread for tying up the sobressades, botifarres
and botifarrons) necessary for the making of the preserved
food from the pig(s). Up until the 1950s, and later in some
areas, this trip could be a major undertaking for some families:
roads were few and far between and transport was usually by
horse and cart. Going from isolated Sa Coruna (Sant Agnès)
in the Northwest of the island to Vila in the Southeast was
like crossing the whole world. Sometimes these trips would
take several days, the family at home eagerly awaiting the
voyagers' return with adventurous stories from their trip.
Some 'adventures', of course, could not be told: up until
the late 1950s there were at least two traditional brothels
(neither containing Ibicencan women, that would cause too
many local problems) in Ibiza town, one famous one being in
the Calle de La Virgen. One was in a building owned by the
Catholic Church (annual rent paid for the building produced
the delightful 'Money received for charcoal delivered' receipt).
Of course I am not saying these were regularly visited by
pagesos on their annual visits to Vila to purchase the pre-requisites
for matançes, I am just saying they existed. Interestingly
enough, these two brothels were closed down by the authorities
in 1959 around the time of the opening of the first airfield
on the island. With tourism in its early stages, it seems
the authorities felt the existence of these two 'cultural
institutions' might give the island a bad name: in retrospect
this is slightly comical as, according to some people who
know the island well, much of the whole island has been turned
into a vast 'bordello' during the summer season over the last
few decades!
Red peppers were or are used in the preparation
of the famous sobrassades, giving them their renowned colour.
Traditionally the red peppers are toasted or split and dried
in the sun (I saw a large batch drying in the sun outside
a casa pagesa (peasant house) near Sa Coruna (Sant Agnès)
just last Sunday) and are then crushed into powder. For many
years though, packets of pre-dried and powdered red peppers
have been available in Eivissa. Pagèsos are slightly
more wary about what packet brand they buy now as there was
a major disaster in 1997. Pre-packed packets from Mallorca
of a special 'pimiento rojo' and 'pimiento molido' mix have
sold for years, Mallorcan peppers supposedly being preferred
over local ones by Ibicencos for this purpose. However, there
was something definitely wrong with the late 1997 mix: Sobrassades
made with this mix lost their reddish colour after a few months.
Nobody here wants to eat a non-reddish, slightly whitish sobrassada
(even though it might taste the same), and people here were
furious. Sardonic joking stories circulated regarding another
attempted plot by Mallorca to destroy Ibicenco culture (as
such alleged plots have been going on for centuries this was
not considered unusual) and certain tempers became hot. Such
a disaster might be hard for the British to understand, but
put it this way, if you were from the north of England and
found out that the French had secretly found out a way to
turn steak and kidney pie green, or to turn chips pink, how
would you feel? In the old days people often went to war for
less. The fact that numerous mallorquins (Mallorcans) got
caught in the same way did nothing to lessen the anger.
Nowadays one can also buy the pre-packed
spices that are to be mixed with the powdered peppers, making
life a lot easier, but traditionally each family might have
had (and some still have) their own secret herb and spice
mix which would make their sobrassades the best on the island
(and, by connotation, the world).
Whilst the household head and eldest son
were in Vila purchasing necessities, the women would be making
other preparations. Bundles of brushwood/kindling of sweet-smelling
ginebre or argelaga would have been gathered from the forest
(often by men): bundles of this would be/are used to singe
the pig once killed. On the neighbouring small island of Formentera,
where such bushes are rarer, frigoles and aubada were/are
gathered. Bundles of the white estepa ('jarra blanca' in Castillano)
plant were gathered in preparation for scrubbing the pig-killing
board and the various tables and benches to be used. Estepa
is a very useful plant, and most old houses have quite a plentiful
supply growing nearby. It is a natural antiseptic and cleanser
and one can work up soapy foam with it when mixed with water
and used as a scrubber - ideal for daily cleaning of kitchenware
and the annual matança requisites. In many households
this has now sadly been replaced by Fairy liquid or similar
detergents, which may unfortunately not be so biodegradable.
Estepa is also the traditional local toilet paper, hygienic
to use (and completely biodegradable), but one has to remember
to wipe with it the correct way, otherwise it can be slightly
scratchy (!). On Formentera barrombi or sàlvia plants
could also be used for the cleaning and scrubbing. Other bundles
of firewood are prepared, as on the day of the matançe
a large cauldron must be kept on the boil all day to prepare
the botifarres and botifarrons.
The great day approaches. Many of those
invited to the matança - and each will have their own
work to do - arrive the day beforehand to stay overnight as
it is an early start the next morning. If the day happens
to be a school day, the children are allowed to stay away
from school (although not all children in rural areas went
to school much until circa the 1950s). The pig is not given
any food from at least the day beforehand so that its 'lower
interior extremities' will be easier to clean. The banc de
matar (pig-killing board or bench) is cleaned and scrubbed
ready. I had promised last week to speak more about pigs in
Europe, etc, in general, but as our Editor, Gary Hardy, has
prepared some preliminary matança photographs to go
with this week's article, I thought it best to at least get
the banc de matar cleaned and ready *!
With thanks to many Ibicenco friends and
especially Doña Rita and also Bartolomé Ribas
Ribas and also acknowledgements to the work of Marià
Torres Torres.
* If any of you reading this happens to
be one of those English 'suppliers' that annually swamp the
discotheques of this island with Ecstasy (or whatever) and
you have been confronted by an old Ibicenco peasant whom you
thought was telling you that your 'bank was ready', don't
assume that means that your bank is waiting for a large deposit.
What he was trying to tell you was that your 'banc de matar'
was ready, i.e. a relatively polite way to say that it was
probably about time that you rather rapidly left the island.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
All pictures © Gary
Hardy (December 1992)
|
Kirk W Huffman
| |