This week I'm going to acquaint our readers with a few statistics
of this plot of gold and first you will most probably want to know something about
the lay-out of the island of Ibiza, which is the third largest of the sixteen
inhabited Balearic islands. The island of Ibiza is often referred
to as the Isla Pityusa (the island of pines). It's roughly oval in shape, running
from north-east to south-west, it is at its maximum about 25 miles long and 12
miles wide and has an area of approximately 230 square miles. The island is volcanic
in origin and the greatest attraction, especially from an aeroplane, is its pine
clad hills that are studded with white-washed houses and farmsteads which contrast
so brilliantly in the bright sunlight with the azure blue of the Mediterranean.
The island is divided into five separate local government
councils: San José is the largest geographically followed by Sant Antoni
de Portmany, Santa Eulalía de Rio, San Joan de Labritja and Ibiza town,
although it's the island's capital, has the smallest area to govern. However,
Ibiza town council accounts for 35.000 of the island's population of 89.000 and
the only other town councils with any size of population are Sant Antoni de Portmany,
which has a population of 15.000 and Santa Eulalía del Rio with a population
of 18.000. Both of these areas have grown into favourite holiday resorts and attract
thousands of visitors each year. The remainder of the island's population is divided
as follows: Sant Josep 10.000, San Rafael 4.000, San Joan de Labritja 4.000 and
San Miguel has a population of 3.000. The airport lies
to the south-west of the island, bordering the sea and flanked on its east-side
by the salt pans, which use to provide one of the more important industries of
the island. Five miles to the north of the airport is Ibiza town, the ancient
walled city and this with its picturesque, natural harbour which is capable of
berthing vessels of several thousand tons is the capital of the island. This is
the main port of the island which handles not only the passenger boats that ply
to and from Barcelona, Valencia, Alicante, Palma de Mallorca and the neighbouring
island of Formentera, but also the many and varied types of freight and cargo
ships which bring supplies to Ibiza. The Ibiza Yachting Club, bordered by the
boat building and repair yards, lies to the in land end of the mile-long harbour.
Ibiza Town The old citadel
dominated by its fine aged cathedral is known as Dalt Villa and it is separated
from the new town by a massive stone wall built in the 16th and 17th centuries,
which is still in a remarkable good state of preservation. There are three gateways
that lead out from the Dalt Villa to the surrounding new town. The main gate,
Portal de les Taules, accessible to traffic, is approached by the long ramp, once
a draw-bridge, leading up from the square of Lluís Tur. On either side
of this fine gateway you will see a Roman statue, one is of the goddess Juno,
the other of a Roman emperor, both of which have been decapitated. On a plaque
above the archway, crested by the arms of Spain, is a Latin inscription recording
the completion of the gateway in 1585 during the reign of King Philip 11. The
main approach to the cathedral is through the L-shaped gateway, turning sharp
left immediately after leaving its courtyard and climbing up a widening roadway
flanked on the left-hand side by a high wall covered in bougainvillaea and on
the right-hand side is the seated statue of Isidoro Macabich. Just beyond the
church of St. Domingo on the left-hand side is the town hall square and from here
you have a magnificent view out over the harbour beyond the promontory of Talamanca
and across the a host of rocky isles to the close island of Formentera. In this
area of the town there are a number of characteristic old houses which date back
through the centuries, some of which still bear their original coats of arms.
At the top of the hill in the Cathedral Square are the Bishop's Palace and the
Archaeological Museum. The new town, in contrast to the serenity of Dalt Villa,
is the commercial area with its many shops, restaurants, hotels, pensions and
bars. Sant Antoni de Portmany San
Antonio is twelve miles across to the north-western side of the island from Ibiza
town and it lies on the inland extremity of what must naturally be one of the
most beautiful bays in the Mediterranean, which was appropriately named by the
Romans as Portus Magnus. Being protected seaward by the island of Conejera and
further inland by a high mole, ideal conditions exist for boating, sailing and
water-skiing. A large expanse of water is encompassed by the inner mole so that
calm conditions prevail here even when sailing outside would be dangerous for
small craft. During summer the harbour of San Antonio is a favourite anchorage
for private yachts, motor cruisers and is alive with craft of all types ferrying
people across the harbour and also to some of the island's most attractive beaches
which border the bay. Port d'es Turrent, Cala Bassa, Cala Conta, Cala Tarida and
the twin bays of Cala Grassio are all within easy reach from the town. San Antonio
is also the spiritual home for Café del Mar, Es Paradis Terrenal and the
asylum for the crazy nightlife scene of the notorious West End. Santa
Eulalía del Rio Santa Eulalía, is ten
miles to the north-west of Ibiza town and it stands at the mouth of the only river
on the island; hence its suffix. Its old white church built on top of a hill can
be seen from miles around and contrasts vividly with the luxuriant green vegetation
which covers the hills and fields beyond. Although its coast is mainly flat and
rocky there are a number of good beaches within a few miles radius. In addition
Santa Eulalía is a well renowned eating place being endowed with a number
of very good restaurants - patronised by the Spaniards as much as by tourists
- always a good testimonial. Mountains The
highest mountain on the island is the Atalaya which is 1550 feet high and this
is found to the west of San José. It was used by the islanders as an observation
post during the Spanish Civil War. There are three other mountains in the north
and one in the south of the island that are over 1000 feet in altitude. Climate
Ibiza has the good fortune to enjoy a wonderful temperate
climate, reputably the finest of the Balearic group of islands. In the summer,
temperatures in excess of 86°F. are rare. Even then the heat is usually nullified
by the soft sea breezes. For months on end there is little or no rain whilst the
skies are almost perpetually blue throughout the day and crystal clear and full
of stars by night. Swimming in the sea can be enjoyed from May until late October.
During the winter temperatures rarely fall much below 40° F. because there
are few days when the sun does not shine at some time, whilst on occasions in
any of the winter months there can be strong gales with periodic heavy rain and
excessive dampness during the night. This, however, is of short duration but when
it's cold outdoors at night during the winter open wood fires are the principal
method of heating in the homes. Wind-up time, the deceased,
lifelong dedicated bachelor and poet, Philip Larkin wrote: "The pram in the
hall `is the deadliest enemy of literary promise". I read a story yesterday
in a British daily newspapers with the headlines: "Women who shared the love
of Larkin". "One of the poet's three lovers has broken her silence about
her relationship with another of his companions." In 1955, he dedicated a
poem - "The Less Deceived" - to her, which encapsulated the qualified
nature of his love. Gary Hardy
garyhardy@ibizahistoryculture.com
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